It’s hard to put this trip into words, but I’ll try my best…
Imagine the Arctic, so fantastically raw & wild; looking out across the snow-lined mountain fjords you see the misty blows of humpback whales and pods of orca herding the thousands of herring that populate these waters during the winter months. The polar night casts a warm golden glow for only 3-4 hours of the day which gives you the small window of opportunity to pull on your 10mm wetsuit, strap yourself onto the front of a rib and traverse full-speed across the rough Arctic ocean to find something so truly magical, you won’t even believe your own eyes. As the light leaves the short day, you are greeted on your remote Arctic island with fireside beers, a log-fired sauna & the Aurora Borealis dancing through the night sky. You are living out all of your wildest dreams.
In December 2024, after years of dreaming, years of curiosity, “Is this something you can actually do?”, I ventured into the north, right up to the Arctic circle of Norway. It was here that I went to meet the no.1 Apex predator of the ocean in their natural habitat and experience them face-to-face in the water.
I sometimes worry that my dive experiences can’t get any more extreme than this one, and believe it or not I had zero fear when plunging myself into the black icy ocean waiting for the white glisten of killer whales to approach from the darkness. That being said, this was one of the hardest things I have ever physically put myself through; the extreme environment is not for the faint-hearted, and these extreme conditions paired with the fact that you are meeting the no.1 killer of the ocean means you need to be incredibly competent and confident in the wild open ocean.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat.

















N.B. Not all images are my own. Images provided by expedition group.

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What company did you do this with?
Valhalla Orca Expedition.
Valhalla orchestrates expeditions (now only available for a whole week) where you are able to dive with the marine life, and not just ‘whale-watch’ from the boat.
I was beyond impressed with this incredible company who have the wildlife at the forefront of the whole experience. Despite there being a lot of ‘whale watching’ day trips available from Tromsø, this exclusive experience surpassed any of my expectations. Their attention to detail made this trip memorable and their love for the ocean shone through. This is not about tourism, it’s about education and conservation. Beyond the awe of what you get to witness underwater, the whole experience of being on a remote island with no one else around is what made this one of the best trips I think I will ever experience in my life.
Where is the expedition?
A small remote island in northern Norway called Seglvik.
70° 12′ 17″ N, 21° 13′ 16″ E
I flew into Tromsø (from Bristol for £80 return!), which is a buzzing built-up city in the Arctic perfect to use as a base for your Arctic adventures. From here I travelled by ferry (2 ferries) which took approx 4 hours to reach Seglvik island where we were greeted by the expedition team. The island is incredibly remote and wild, only reachable by boat with unbelievable scenery and the chance to watch whales from your bedroom window.
Seglvik, our base camp, sits on a remote peninsula north of Kvænangen Fjord in Norway’s Troms og Finnmark region. At 70° North, far from everything, this is where Sami herders return each summer, bringing their reindeer to graze on the salty Arctic grass before beginning their long migration back to the forests of Lapland.
How much did the expedition cost?
€2,520 for a 4 day/4 night expedition.
However, Valhalla now only offers FULL WEEK expeditions from the 2025 season starting in October which start from €5,025. Despite feeling lucky I was able to book a 4-day expedition, I would choose to do a full week if I went back (even with the eyewatering cost).
Did you have to book in advance?
I booked a whole year in advance yes….!
That’s if you want more choice when it comes to the dates, as the spaces fill up fast. There were approx 30 people in total and their trips run from mid October through to the end of January.
What did that include?
My 4-day expedition included:
- 4 nights of shared accommodation in a traditional Norwegian house
- All of your meals
- Full equipment (10mm wetsuit, hoodie, boots, mask, snorkel, weight belt, dry robe)
- 4 boat expeditions
- Evening marine life talks and activities (sauna)
What did a typical day look like?
A typical day in the Arctic…
Wake up to the polar night darkness, head over to the whale house for a hearty breakfast, take on the challenge of getting into your wetsuit with lots of soap, waddle through the elements down to the boats ready for your day out, wait for the first light at 10am to head out into the fjords, spend all of the light and all of your energy exploring the vast arctic ocean ready to dive at any given time, make the long (& freezing) journey back to Seglvik, de-frost your body in a hot shower and sauna, take an even colder ‘ice bath’ in the ocean, head to the Lavvu teepee for a fireside beer and sharing stories with your team, dinner & a well-deserved sleep. Ready to do it all again the next day.
How long were you in the water for?
Due to the polar night in December, which means the sun never fully rises above the horizon…
…we had a window of 3-4 hours of beautiful twilight glow to venture out in the fjords and do our dives. The duration of time in the water depended on the interactions, but often you are in and out of the water frequently. Believe me when I say, the 4 degree water is where you want to be…not on the boat with -24 degree wind chill!!!
You must be competent in the water and able to pull yourself from the water onto the tubes of the rib (which is harder than you think), but at least it keeps you warm.
What did you wear in the water & were you warm enough?
A 10mm two-piece wetsuit, hood, boots and neoprene gloves. One of the hardest parts of your day is getting that on…
Are you warm? Of course not! You aren’t going to go diving in the Artic ocean and be warm/comfortable. It is very uncomfortable; you forget what your toes feel like, your lips swell from the icy wind and you have to dig deep to get through the extreme conditions. BUT as you look out across the fjords going full speed on a rib, it is truly breathtaking and reminds you that it is all worth it.
TOP TIP: put your gloves on in the house, and don’t take them off until you are back in the house…I learned the hard way on day one.
What kind of diving is it?
I use the word ‘dive’ as generalised terminology. You are not scuba diving, it is ‘freediving’ or snorkelling.
What were your interactions like?
Mindblowing…
It’s hard to have access to the internet which is overflowing with once-in-a-lifetime experiences and not expect a lot… Despite not witnessing their feeding underwater and not having the best visibility/light, I cannot begin to describe the first time I saw 3 killer whales swim directly underneath me in the water.
Seeing these wild animals in their natural habitat with your own eyes doesn’t compare to anything. Not only did I get to interact with killer whales in the water and pods of 40+ of them from the surface, but I also had my first ever experience with a sperm whale in the water and we saw pods of 8 humpback whales at a time. Looking out across the ocean to waters teeming with whales absolutely blows you away. I am beyond grateful for being able to experience this.
Did you feel threatened by the killer whales?
Absolutely not…
It’s their natural habitat and if they didn’t want you there you’d know about it. If anything, they are shy and you are trained to get silently into the water so you don’t disturb them.
Why don’t they attack humans?
An Orca’s identity is defined by what they hunt…
which is dependent on what part of the globe they are born into. At birth, their mothers teach them the finessed art of hunting their specific prey (which is herring in Arctic Norway). If they then migrate to other parts of the ocean, there will be animals they don’t identify as prey and therefore don’t know how to hunt. This theory can also be applied to humans – they have never learned to hunt us…
Is it ethical to see them in the wild like this?
Arctic Norway has a thriving ecosystem and a healthy population of killer whales.
Valhalla Orca Expedition has ethically and responsibly created an expedition that not only educates people about the ocean, but which funds further research into the local marine life.
In 2021 and 2022, the Valhalla team was joined by scientists from the University of Toulon, specialising in underwater bioacoustics, who brought acoustic equipment to record the animals. The team continue to collect data for the university which now educates us about the animal’s behaviours and feeding patterns, thus supporting the species in the long run.
The crew have the wildlife at the forefront of the experience, ensuring they read the animal’s behaviours so as not to cause any stress. If more people did their research into responsible travel and educated themselves about nature and its beautiful wildlife, maybe this would equate to a larger portion of our population wanting to help change.
Let your love for the ocean mean you always choose responsible travel.

Thank you to Julie & the fantastic team at Valhalla Expedition who made this adventure beyond memorable…and to the wonderful humans I shared it with.

THINGS TO DO IN TROMSØ
Located at 69° North, Tromsø is an Arctic destination offering Midnight Sun in the summer and the Northern Lights in the winter. It’s a vibrant city despite its Arctic location, with a strong student population and rich history dating back to Viking times.
If you’re visiting Tromsø before or after your expedition, here are some must-do activities:
- Sauna & Ice Plunge at Pust: Sweat it out in this fjordside sauna before plunging into icy Arctic waters.
- Husky Sledding: Visit a husky kennel and experience dog sledding through the Arctic wilderness.
- Northern Lights Chasing: Join a guided tour to find the best spots to witness the Aurora Borealis.
- Ride the Fjellheisen Cable Car: Get breathtaking panoramic views of Tromsø and beyond.
- Visit the Arctic Cathedral: An architectural landmark inspired by the surrounding mountains and ice formations.
- Experience Sámi Culture: Visit a reindeer farm, learn about Sámi traditions, and try reindeer sledding.

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