Despite my lifelong affinity with the souks of Marrakech &, of late, the mountainous range of Northern Africa, I had never had the innate fascination to visit coastal Morocco…until late. After all, if the streets of Marrakech were dirty then surely the coastal towns would be no different; was my prejudice.
From my past experience of the Indian beaches of Kerala & Goa, the kind of travel destinations that are a cultural ‘attack on the senses’ don’t quite go hand-in-hand with pristine beaches and crystal clear waters. I was right, but also very wrong…
In a haze of a sleep-deprived headache, I touched down in my first coastal destination, Taghazout, and felt a little unsure in my decision to visit coastal Morocco; let’s not sugar coat it. Amongst the uncomfortable feeling that always comes with being a solo woman in Morocco, I felt that I was right; the streets were dirty like the souks of Marrakech and sadly they did filter down onto the main beach of Taghazout…
HOWEVER I am not going to dwell any further, because my whole view changed in a matter of hours at the same time as my headache seemed to subside; I ended up really falling in love with coastal Morocco. Like the people you meet, you should never judge a book by its cover, and that’s what is the most fulfilling part of travel; seeing beyond the cracks and imperfections (or getting rid of your headache?). Like many unpolished gems I have visited over the years, it takes time to reveal the depth and beauty in the culture and community. If you were looking for the comfortable, for the pristine, you would stay in a luxury resort in Europe.
Taghazout: The coastal village of Taghazout is located 48km/a 1 hour drive from Agadir International airport. This stretch of Atlantic coastline retains its Moroccan essence, of which I love, whilst captivating worldwide surfers to its shores. Taghazout, amongst the international surf crowd, also felt like a holiday destination for fellow Moroccans; if you weren’t dodging surf schools down the coastline, it was the camels taking their afternoon dip.
WHERE I STAYED: Teddy Pirate
WHERE I ATE: Teapot, Red Clay, World of Waves, Windy Bay, Dar Josephine
WHERE I DRANK: Seaside Hotel, Amouage/Surf Maroc, Munga Guesthouse
A big part of me falling for Taghazout was where I stayed: Teddy Pirate, a co-living house right on Taghazout town beach. As I was escaping to Morocco for some warmth and autumn sun, away from our premature winter wet, I was looking for somewhere to continue working remotely in a homely setting and this place gave me everything and more!
There was something very special about this place; beyond the carefully curated interiors, it gave me a truly homely feel and community of like-minded individuals all working remotely, from every corner of the world. We would gather on the rooftop early every morning, laptops in hand, and served a beautiful Moroccan breakfast spread overlooking the beach. Afternoons were spent surfing or basking in the sun, followed by cocktails as we watched the sun sink into the Atlantic.
THINGS TO DO: SURF, visit the Skate Park, Yoga, visit Paradis Plage for a day of R&R, Sand-boarding in the Timlalin dunes
WHAT I’D DO DIFFERENTLY: Rent a car to explore the hidden gems along the coastline but SOUK TO SURF shuttle bus was a cheapest (& best) way to travel up & down the coast!
Imsouane: There are few places I have traveled in the world that have an underlying magic in the air; something that instantly captivates me, something you can’t quite put words to…Imsouane was one of those places.
My 13 years of solo travel has taught me that my instinct is always right and for some reason I knew Imsouane would be a place I would truly fall for, so I decided to trust my gut and weighted my week with the majority of time spent further up the coastline in this sleepy fishing village, turned surf town.
WHERE I STAYED: Surf & Sound Hotel LOVED!
WHERE I ATE/DRANK: Imi Bay Hotel, Momo’s Cafe, Surf & Sound family dinners, The O Experience
Its infectious laid-back energy had me hooked as soon as I stepped foot off the bus; I dumped my bags and followed the surf boards that led me directly to one of the first beaches. Peppered with surfers from across the globe, the waves were busier than the quiet streets that lined them.
Once a small charming fishing village, in northern Sous-Massa, the 1960’s began its years of attracting surfers to its shores; and there was something that gave me the feel of it still being stuck in a time-warp. Imagine two worlds colliding; international surf culture & the richness of Morocco.
Sadly, there was an eerie emptiness from the buildings that had recently been demolished by the government, including Tasblast the oldest and most beautiful part of the village. Built in the 80’s, many of the buildings were built on unlicensed and public land. This devastation to the once popular surf village has affected their tourism, which gave me even more reason to support the business there.
As many people had warned me, yes it was very sleepy and I quickly covered every corner of the small village on foot, but this was exactly why I knew I would love it. My idea of the perfect beach is vastness and emptiness, and the bay of magic boasting Africa’s longest wave, was exactly that. Every morning I would walk down to the bay, followed by my harem of stray dogs, and watch the sunrise surfers. Magic Bay boasts one of the longest surfable waves in the world. It is also one of the easiest reef breaks to ride and can be ridden for over 700 metres, making it the perfect place for beginners.
THINGS TO DO: SURF, watch the sunrise, watch the sunset, SURF, swim, bask in the CHILL
WHAT I’D DO DIFFERENTLY: Stay forever…
Morocco is a destination, amongst the likes of India & Istanbul, that I would describe as a ‘Polly Place’. Call me strange, but Morocco makes me feel like I am home, like I have ‘come back to my heart’ in a sense. Amidst the un-comfort that comes with travelling through countries like Morocco, as a solo woman, I am completely captivated by the culture, by the beautiful imperfections and richness of what it has to offer.
So if you are someone who doesn’t need the polished, the luxury and looks for depth in their travel, I would highly recommend jumping on a plane to coastal Morocco…there is no doubt I will be back in the very near future.
1 WEEK: 3 nights Taghazout & 4 nights Imsouane
FLIGHT UK > Agadir – £100.95
Accommodation x7 nights – £313
Spending money (transport, excursions and food) – £169.50
Total cost: £610.45
- WHEN TO TRAVEL: I traveled in late September which is the very start of the surf season. For surf you need to travel over the winter months with the surf increasing the later it gets.
- SOLO FEMALE TRAVEL: If you are a solo female traveler like me, remember you are in Morocco … you will get a lot of un-wanted attention from Moroccan men, especially given you were are on the beach in swimwear. Be firm, be safe and take the focus away by hanging out with fellow travellers, especially men.
- CLIMATE: The days were warm (mid 20’s) but I would recommend taking something warm to wear at night if travelling in autumn/winter.
- Imsouane has recently installed its first cash point, but I would recommend taking out cash before you arrive.
- Don’t swim on the main town beach in Taghazout…the water is very dirty & I heard of many people getting ill doing it.
- TRAVELLING ROUND: Travel up and down the coast using the Souk to Surf shuttle bus, but if you can, I would suggest renting a car. Taxi’s seem to be very expensive relatively.
- Download maps.me/Google Maps and the map for each area so you can navigate offline. Morocco wasn’t included in my phone’s roaming destinations.
Following Polly 
So interesting and really feel the atmosphere. I definitely want to visit now. Love this article.
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